Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Machu Picchu (the old mountain peak) and more!

So we have just returned one day ago from a trek of a lifetime.  4 days in deep valleys with looming cliffs, angry rivers and of course, a group of british. We left early in the morning on friday by mini van to Ollantatambo and then another hour or so to the very top of a very long road. It is cold at 4400 meters and it is where we saddled up our mountain bikes for a 2 hour decent down a swirving andean road.

 Our jungle trek group!

Geared up, on our way down
Hey mom, I am back! :-D

We dropped around 2500 meters in all and passed through every climate inbetween. 5 layers at the top, one or none at the bottom.  We then had a challenging mountain bike ride through hilly unpaved road and road construction to our destination, another 2 hours more. We arrived at a small town now a strange mix of farmers road construction workers and tourists.  Machu picchu has changed many things here after the trek we were on gained popularity 4 years ago.  I took a well deserved beer while anna went more extreme. She went white water rafting to satify her thrills.
The tour was well booked for us because we went directly through the agency that ran the tour.  The way that it works in most of these places is that there is a few companies that run certain excursions and tours. they own the equipement and hire the guides.  there are other agencies out there that only act as middle men.  They book the tour through the tour company for you and take a cut in the meanwhile. Anna and I therefore slept peacefully in our private room while the rest were crammed into a 16 bed dormitory.  Note for you: always try to book directly with the company, cheaper and better. We also knew what to bring, namely our passports, a requirement for the entrance to Machu Picchu.

Day 2

Hiking. Long, 7 hours, with breaks inbetween in villages and houses for shade and beverages.


 Here we go! Closer and closer to Machu Picchu.

 Hiking up and down...
Warriors
The view of the Sacred Valley
Papayas in the jungle
Cuy-traditional Peruvian dinner
Scott and his coffea. Dried in the sun by the locals.
On the manual cable car. FUN

We thought this would be our toughest day because of all the uphill and jungle humidity, however it was not so bad. Had time to take a dip in the river, take a nap in hammocks and eat a warm meal at a jungle restaurant.  You know, the basic fare...creamy soup with one half a potato inside, second plate with rice, fried potatoes and some thinly sliced meat (sauce ocassionally included) to which i always added specially requested super spicy chilis to.  The exception was our meal at the trout hatchery.  Chunks of chicken in a creamy sauce. perfecto.
Along the way we crossed torrenting rivers by manual cable cars thankful to take this than the other option, swaying cable bridge. we also passed a previous residence of che guavara and a coca plantation. Coca is what makes cocaine, yes of course, but they use it here for other things like tea and for chewing, a habit i picked up during the trek.  It gives you a small kick like a prolonged alertness and if you want to take it further, add a little byproduct of the chocolate making process and your tounge and surrounding areas go numb.  That night we lived it up, already low on sleep, some of us went out for some good old gringo dancing. Anna and I tore it up until our bodies gave in and our reason demanded sleep.

Day 3

An early morning rise and off we went.  Anna and I again went our separate ways.  Anna seeking more thrills, went on a cross valley ziplining trip while I chose to walk along the river with the guide.

 Ziplining! Yeah.

 Going down. Ahhh..

This became the hardest day. With a full days hiking before, I was already a bit worn, and hiking in the direct sun for 3 hours didnt encourage me.  but i couldnt help but awe at the high mountain waterfalls and deep valleys and wonder what wonders machu picchu may hold.  We met up with anna and the zip lining crew at the hydroelectric plant and after a quick government checkpoint, we were off on a small jungle climb and then 4 more hours along the railroad track into aguas caliente, the city and hub below machu picchu along the river. Anna is alright, dont worry, but I should mention that the railroad tried to kill her.  Just 1 and 1/2 hours away from our destination, a railroad tie on bridge got the best of her. Of course she didnt trip. The gaping holes inbetween the wooden planks pulled her two legs down below, with her left straddling the tie and nothing else holding her from the river below.  There was some blood and some bruises, a few scratches and a deflated ego, but the medical attention from the well prepared Irish dentist and our peruvian guide, she survived.

 The result of my fall, nothing serious.

Mean while I was up ahead ignorantly walking along only to find she go hurt only an hour later. Oh my. We stumbled slowly into aguas caliente (translation: hot springs; excepting that they were horrible and dirty) to find that we had no room in the hostel and Anna and I were booked in an unknown hotel somewhere in the town.  After an hour of searching with our guide we came upon a light upon the hill. While the rest of the crew slept in a cramped inexpensive hostel, we were booked in a brand new luxury hotel with cable TV, free tea, hot water and giant comfortable beds. After dinner and a glass of wine, we fell asleep to the sounds of a procession down below for our beloved santa carmen. good night.

Day 4 - Machu Picchu

The magic begins. Machu Picchu at 4h30 am. We could hardly see the lost city of the Incas

Just after the sunrise at around 6 am. 
It emerged from the clouds and appeared in front of us.
Breathtaking!

Me and the beautiful ruins. Behind: Huayna Picchu and the urban part of the city.


I can tell you that we arose at 4 am and that we were so tired we took the bus to the top of the hill for the 6am opening of the ruins of machu picchu.  I can tell you it was foggy and chilly outside and there was a long line behind us to get in.  I can also tell you that we stayed the full 11 hours at machu picchu and climbed a horrendously steep mountain and decended it later. I can even tell you that we saw both sunrise and sunset before walking the 1400+ steps back down to the town in twilight and walked the road in the dark back to town. We were tired.  But I cannot tell you about machu picchu.  It is indescribable.
So that is that.


 Machu Picchu mountain and the garden house from which we watched the sunrise.


The urban part of Machu Picchu. You need to imagine these houses with thatched roofs.



Dancing time :D

The impressive architecture of the Temple del Sol. The Incas worshiped the mountains and therefore would never break a rock to make it fit better in their constructions



:-)


The amazing Machu Picchu built on the peak of the mountain

 The view of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu, its sanctuary

The view from the famous Porta del Sol. The entrance to the site from the Inca Trail


We are now back in Cusco, still in amazement of what we experienced at Machu Picchu.  A place we will never forget.

Today it is Saturday and we have already spent about one week in the capital of the Inkas. We also have been taking spanish for about one week and are amazed of the progress we have already made. It is very motivating. We are going to stay in Cusco till Tuesday and then we are going to head east to Puno,a small city located at the coast on the Lake Titicaca. Then we are going to cross the border and visit our last country on the list, Bolivia!

We are now in the middle of the south american winter so we are suffering from the very cold mornings and evenings. I got sick, so right now we are resting and taking it easy.

In Cuzco, next to the 12 corner stone maintaining the old Inca Wall.
There are guards protecting it 24h/7
 

Cusco - 13 July

Here we are in Cusco, the city where start most of the treks going to Machu Picchu. We are very excited about it. We just booked our tour and we are leaving for our Inka Jungle Trek on Friday 15 and we going to climb Machu Picchu on the following Monday! It is a 4 day and 3 nights tour where we are going to do some mountain biking, rafting, hiking and bathing in hot springs :-)
Right now we are doing some research about Bolivia and spanish classes. We are planning to take about one week of spanish! Yey!

Sunday, July 10, 2011

10 July - Nasca

After a relaxing time in Huacachina we got to Nasca where we went to see the Nasca lines. So exciting.
In order to see the Nasca lines we split up and Scott choose to go to 3 observatories by car and guide where he could see a few signes and a museum that explained the whole history behind them. I chose to take the plane and fly over the whole field. Both tours were completely worth it! I was a little bit annoyed by the whole organisation of the flight though. I booked the tour at our hostel and till the end I honestly did not know if I was going or not...I also had to bargain the price and make sure I am going to fly with the company I wanted. I had to argue a little at the airport as suddenly my passport was handed out from one company (recommended by our tour guides) to another that I never heard of. (many accidents happened in the past because the planes were old and badly maintained, but now only a few companies can fly..safer but much more expensive). They were telling me that it is the same thing..tranquilo, traquilo they were saying. I did not agree on that and 30 mins later I was sitting on the right plane :-) All in all, the flight was very intresting but from what I read about the lines I thought that the signes were bigger. They are actually pretty small and sometimes hard to see as in order to see the signs, 20 years ago tourists were still allowed to drive their car in the field. It created many lines that do not have anything to do with the Nasca lines.

On the plae before taking off

The astronault

The hummingbird

Another bird


The observatory tour (and maybe Scott :-)), the tree o the left and the hands on the right
The amazing view from the plane

After the flight .with my certificate and happy not to have used the plastic bags provided in case someone does not enjoy the numerous loops of the plane, he,he.

As for me (scott) I had a great time with some israelis and an english speaking guide in an economy car.  I got to see a couple of figures by three towers, but what was interesting was the lines.  the nazca created lines sometimes up to 15 km long...9 mi...that were used as paths, astronomical indicators, and to point to water sources.  they actually created a series of underground irrigation channels that are still used to this day!  The ride was fun and along the way, i got to see a 1000 year old mummy with its skin and tatoos still holding on.  What more can you ask for?!

7 July- Huacachina

On Thursday, we left Huaraz with another 8 hour night bus which got to Lima at 5h30 in the morning. Then we left at 6h10 for Ica, a town located in southern Peru. We got there around noon and we were exhausted so we rested for the rest of the day in between gorgeous natural sand dunes in the middle of an oasis. Huacachina is located 5 km away from Ica and consists of a quiet lagoon surrounded by sand dunes and palm trees. There, we got a tour on a 4by 4 sand buggy vehicle, driving across Ica's desert at high speed. It was SO much fun! We ended off our tour sandboarding, just like snowboarding but on sand. Youhou! We had a great time :-D

The oasis-Huacachina
Sand dunes around Huacachina

On the top of the dunes.

Somewhere over there...

This is one of the crazy buggies!

Us and our great vehicle


I am coming...

Watch out!


Ola!


Sandboarding

:D



2 July- Huaraz

On Saturday night we left Huanchaco and arrived in the early morning the next day to Huaraz, a small town located in the middle of the Cordillera Blanca. Right when we got off the bus we could feel the 3100 m of altitude at which the town is located. It felt much colder than on the coast and it was much harder to go up the stairs :-) In the high altitude, the air contains less oxygen. Huaraz is always very busy. It is the starting point of many treks in the region. From here it is possible to go and see one of the most beautiful mountains in the World. At 6000 m, it is much higher than Mont Blanc in the alps.

We took 2days to acclimate ourselves to the altitude and find the best treks we could do while being here. We also explored the city and tried some typical food. One day for lunch Scott had an alpaca burger and I got a 1/4 of a Guinea pig!!!


The first bite of the cuy...I think that was my first and last try. Poor animals!

Eating alpaca

The Alpaca turned out to be very good. However, the Guinea pig was not. Maybe because it was so cute, or maybe because it was hard to find any meat.


The indians on the street in Huaraz


One of the goods we could find at the local market...

On the third day we ended up going for a one day trek to see the famous Laguna 69. It supposedly is a great trek to do before going on a longer trek in order to get used to the altitude. It was beautiful. Although it took us about 3hours to get to the trailhead and another 3 hours to get to the top. It was beautiful but hard. We had a perfectly sunny day so we could admire the beautiful landscapes as much as we could. The way up was not easy at all...and we were very tired once we got to the turquoise and absolutely beautiful laguna located at 4750m. We were very proud of ourselves to have done it. Our next plan was to go on a 4 day trek called Sant Cruz, where it is possible to see the mountain that Paramount films chose as its starting logo before playing its movies. Unfortunately Scott hurt his knee and as for me hiking is nothing very exciting we decided to leave Huaraz and keep going south.

Going up!




The amazing view from the top

Finally there.
La Laguna 69
 Beautiful!
 I am also gonna get there :-)
 On our way back.
The very interesting tree from the Cordillera Blanca