So here we are back in la paz after rough riding in the south of bolivia. Endless isolated mountain plains, cactus, rock monuments, dried up ancient lakes, and ghost towns where towns should have never existed. This is the arizona, the southern colorado of bolivia where some of the worlds worst bandits were caught and killed and the spirit of the wild west is preserved. We started off in Tupiza, one of the last towns before the argentinian border a 10 hour bus ride from potosi. Anna had healed up just about the time that i had the urge to grab a quick lunch in the central market. Up front i saved about $4 but after being horribly sick with food poisoning for 3 days, i dont think it was worth it. We did get a chance to do some horseback riding though the day before i got sick and it was good to feel a bit like butch cassidy and his secret love riding through red rock canyons. I also learned that my initial plan to see both the last robbery site and subsequent last shoot out town of sundance and the kid was a bit far fetched. 110 km (65 mi) on a map looks short, but it is 4 1/2 hours by all terrain jeep to get to only one place.(and expensive) so, no horse riding their last route and no car. We did get lucky though and saw that our 5 day salt flat tour would be crossing near san vincente, the resting place of sundance and butch. Opportunity.
We booked our tour of the salt flats with la torre tours for 5 days through the bolivian highland. 3 days and countless hours by jeep through the scrubby plains and multicolored lakes, then two days in the salar de uyuni with an ascent to the top of the --------- volcano. We were very lucky to find a great couple to join us. Sidonie and Didier are a french swiss couple that have been traveling for 11 months now. They have been all over the world and loved traveling so much that if they found they missed something or didnt get a chance to visit somewhere they would always say " next time, next time." it also turns out that Sidonie and Anna know many people in common. Sidonie even worked as a secretary at Anna's university while she was studying. Well they made great traveling companions and good competition for our nightly card games in our chilly hostels.
The tour itself was great. We saw wild flamingos in stinking sulfur lakes, stayed in a hotel made entirely from salt, had great food, took crazy pictures on the salt flats, swam in hot springs, and froze in our sleeping bags at night. The driver wasn't an honest man, but his wife was always greeting us with a smile and hot tea. The car was a toyota four runner with two sets of bench seats in the back. Each morning we would wake up, pack up our bags, have a breakfast of coffee and bread of the day ( cake, fry bread, rolls). We would hand our bags then up to Franco and he would store them on the roof rack along with the gas and tools. Then off we would go, sometimes seeing the sunrise over the mountains. We would stop frequently at different places and have a great lunch in the outdoors sitting on rocks, the ground, wherever. The days were longer or shorter, but all were beautiful. At night we would post up in a new hostel and have tea and cookies. There wasnt much to do, no showers (except one night) and too cold to be outside, so we would rest, chat or play cards. After a hot dinner we were pretty quick to hop under the covers and turn in for the night to rest for the next day.
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Friday, August 19, 2011
Cochabamba and our way south
After La Paz we headed on to Cochabamba. From what we heard, it wasn’t much more than a massive pancake of a city, but we weren’t interested in comparing any big city to the likes of La Paz (which we loved), we came to see dinosaurs. Yes, not more than 60 miles from Cochabamba is Torotoro National Park. No, it does not mean “bull,bull” but is a spaniardization of a local word meaning (from what I could tell) “hard to walk in when wet”. Lucky for us, we have been traveling during the winter dry season, so none of that was going to go on, just dusty isolated treks through a scrubby bushy highland desert. Torotoro takes its time to get there, 6 hours by bus arriving at midnight, but it is completely worth it. Within our 2 ½ days there, we climbed through a ´city of rocks´, went caving, and hiked through the wilderness.
The biggest highlight was the dinosaur tracks. Hundreds of thousands of years ago, dinosaurs used to migrate through torotoro north and south. The region used to be swampy and flat so along the way, the dinosaurs, both big and small, left footprints which have since been fossilized.
Torotoro is no longer flat though. Time has bent and folded the landscape, dried it out and some of the last thousands of years got washed back away exposing ancient signs from a world since lost. Heavy big footprints with, what is that?!, a trace of a tail. Hundreds of small three toed prints running over the step of a velociraptor. I was skeptical until I saw them. And now you can…
Hiking around the city of stones
The amazing Toro Toro mountain formation
The biggest highlight was the dinosaur tracks. Hundreds of thousands of years ago, dinosaurs used to migrate through torotoro north and south. The region used to be swampy and flat so along the way, the dinosaurs, both big and small, left footprints which have since been fossilized.
Dinosaurs footprints
Dinosaurs footprints !!!
New dinosaurs! ;-)
Us walkiing on the bridge of Love, hehe :D
Scott sitting in the herbivorous dinosaur's footprint
The Toro Toro canyon
Scott and Dino- our guide, swimming in the very cold natural spring water
Torotoro is no longer flat though. Time has bent and folded the landscape, dried it out and some of the last thousands of years got washed back away exposing ancient signs from a world since lost. Heavy big footprints with, what is that?!, a trace of a tail. Hundreds of small three toed prints running over the step of a velociraptor. I was skeptical until I saw them. And now you can…
Torotoro really inspired me to recognize that many small towns all over the world likely hold wonders greater than and metropolis and grand city. We only just need to look.
After Cochabamba, anna and I split to Sucre. Anna swears it is the most beautiful of what we have seen in South America. It is collegiate, provential, and bustling with life. The central market is out of this world. There is an entire courtyard devoted to juice makers. There is any and every combination possible from cherimoya and milk (my favorite) and batidos which are malt drink mixed with raw egg and sugar (beer as substitute for those hard mornings). It was across the street from our hotel and I therefore spent most of my time there. Anna also discovered a French run cultural evening with indigenous Bolivian dance and a gourmet meal for a steal. The costumes were colorful and wild. At one point a bull was chasing a demon through brightly dressed tribal women with flowing skirts. And of course, Anna was one of the few chosen to dance the last dance. She and her colorful legs warmers fit right in. A great night.
Now we are in potosi, once one of the most well know cities in the world and the source of most of spain´s silver. It is above 4000 meters (13100 ft) and a great place to enjoy a beer. Tomorrow Anna goes on a mine tour of the still functioning silver mines and then we are off to Tupiza, the site of the last robbery of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid. But for that, you will have to wait a few days.
In one way the visit of the mines was very interesting as we got to learn how the work in the mines looks like. On the other hand though visiting those mines felt a little bit like voyeurism as all the miners we met were working and on the top of that grievly sick. Nevertheless they keep working in these horrible conditions as they have to provide for their families. On average the life expectancy of miners is lower than 50 years. Being a miner is considered as being a good job. They make about 8 times more money than those working in the city. The nice part about the whole tour was that before getting to the mines we went to a market and bought some gifts for the miners and their families.
In one way the visit of the mines was very interesting as we got to learn how the work in the mines looks like. On the other hand though visiting those mines felt a little bit like voyeurism as all the miners we met were working and on the top of that grievly sick. Nevertheless they keep working in these horrible conditions as they have to provide for their families. On average the life expectancy of miners is lower than 50 years. Being a miner is considered as being a good job. They make about 8 times more money than those working in the city. The nice part about the whole tour was that before getting to the mines we went to a market and bought some gifts for the miners and their families.
The entrance to the silver mines
Assistant miners pushing a card full of 10 tones of silver out of the mines
A miner working with his 15 year old son
El Tio, the owner of silver and protector of the mines.
Trying to make a hole for a dynamite...1h30 for 20 cms..
Behind me Potosi located at more than 4000 m above the sea level
23.08.2011
We are now in Tupiza in the very southern part of Bolivia, about 90 km north of Argentina, where we are spending 2 days horseback riding before going on our tour to see the Salar of Uyuni. SO EXCITING! On our bus ride from Potosi tp Tupiza we met a swiss (french) :)) couple and paired up with then in order to form a group of 4 people for the tour of the Salar.
Today we rode some horses for 3 hours and liked it so much that we signed up for another day tour tomorrow! We had a lot of fun. After that on Wednesday we are off for our big last tour that is going to last 5 days. Supposedely on the Salar during the night the temperature falls up to 20 degrees celcius below 0! Crazy! We think we have enough warm cloths...we hope so!!! The next post is going to be in about one week. See you then!
In Tupiza, ready to horsebackride
Cowboy and cowgirl :-)
Scott and Nils chasing the puma :P
Me and the young lluvia (rain) following at the very end.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Bolivia, La Paz and its markets
Here we are in La Paz, the governmental capital of Bolivia. We arrived here from Copacabana 5 days ago. Copacabana is very famous for its Virgin and also gave its name to a very famous beach in Brazil, Rio de Janeiro, because the city of Rio owns the replica of the statue of the virgin of Copacabana. The city was very busy and loud during the time we stayed there so we did not get to enjoy it too much. Because of the festivities devoted to the virgin the prices were very high and people were taking advantage of the gringos ( white tourists) by getting from them as much money they could.
Though, during our two day stay in town we got to go to see the Island of the moon which is the feminine counterpart of the Isla del Sol. The Isla de la luna is less touristy, much smaller but also very pretty. We had a great day wandering around the island by ourselves, away from all those crazy people from Copacabana. We left Copacabana by bus on the Saturday morning and had to travel for only 3h30 to get to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia.
Everything went very smoothly and we got to La Paz in the early afternoon. The city is big and very busy. Not just cars and people, no. Street markets cover the entire city and it becomes hard to justify ever entering a store. All things can be bought on the sidewalk. It is unbelievable what people can sell.
We visited La Paz and shopped for very cheap leather jackets. In La Paz the jewlery and leather is very cheap and we got custumized jackets for 50 dollars each! :-)
La Paz is also a city where we took a little bit of time off, to rest as we got tired of changing hostels and cities constantly .Yesterday Scott got to play some golf at the highest located golf course in the World and I got to SHOP (a lot) and see the Valley of the Moon. ‘The Moon Valley’ is a rocky landscape – and very unique, filled with rock formations which have been formed through thousands of years of erosion.
We both had a great time. Tomorrow we are leaving La Paz and heading towards Cochabamba, Torotoro national park, the Salt Flats and much more!
The festivities in Copacabana and the very famous car blessing.
Though, during our two day stay in town we got to go to see the Island of the moon which is the feminine counterpart of the Isla del Sol. The Isla de la luna is less touristy, much smaller but also very pretty. We had a great day wandering around the island by ourselves, away from all those crazy people from Copacabana. We left Copacabana by bus on the Saturday morning and had to travel for only 3h30 to get to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia.
This is how we got from Copacabana to La Paz. Check out those tiny ferries :-)
Everything went very smoothly and we got to La Paz in the early afternoon. The city is big and very busy. Not just cars and people, no. Street markets cover the entire city and it becomes hard to justify ever entering a store. All things can be bought on the sidewalk. It is unbelievable what people can sell.
Witches market on the streets of La Paz selling dried lama foetuses bringing good luck to those who burry them underneath their new house.
We visited La Paz and shopped for very cheap leather jackets. In La Paz the jewlery and leather is very cheap and we got custumized jackets for 50 dollars each! :-)
Us trying some jackets :-)
Scott changed his mind but I am getting both of these
La Paz is also a city where we took a little bit of time off, to rest as we got tired of changing hostels and cities constantly .Yesterday Scott got to play some golf at the highest located golf course in the World and I got to SHOP (a lot) and see the Valley of the Moon. ‘The Moon Valley’ is a rocky landscape – and very unique, filled with rock formations which have been formed through thousands of years of erosion.
The grandpa in the valley of the moon
The Valley of the Moon and its rock formations
We both had a great time. Tomorrow we are leaving La Paz and heading towards Cochabamba, Torotoro national park, the Salt Flats and much more!
Thursday, August 4, 2011
3- 8 August
At the bolivian and peruvian border.
A cholita (traditional bolivian woman), marching in a procession.
The Isla del Sol
The Isla del Sol
On the boat, on our way to the Isla del Sol
Traditional constructions on the Isla del Sol
Going from the southern part to the north in order to see the sunset on the lake Titicaca
The beautiful sunset
On our way back with flashlights
We are very close to the border with Peru, the Bolivia side so far does not seem much different but it is for sure cheaper! :-) On the island of the sun we are staying in an amazing room, with a 180 degree view of the eastern portion of the lake. From left to right, the small village of Yumani to the snowy mountains of the Cordillera Royale over the lake and ending with a view of the terraced farms in the south.
The view from our room
Just amazing! And we only paid 80 bolivianos which is equal to about 12 dollars :-) This morning we even got to watch the sunrise from our room :D
We are also very surprised about the food. Pizza seems to be peruvian and bolivian national food....It is everywhere! So here, on the islands, we have two options, fresh fish , old rice, fries and steamed carrots or pizza.
After we came back from Machu Picchu (18 July), we stayed in Cusco for one and a half weeks longer. Partially it was because we wanted to take some spanish classes for one more week but also because I got very sick and had to stay in bed for 4 days straight. For us Cusco is not associated with too many good memories...we were very happy to leave this town!
In the center of Cusco, the Independence day at the main square- the Plaza de Armas
Traditional women coming from the country side every day and making money by
letting tourists take a picture with them and their dressed goats.
A day excursion in the sacred valley.
Here in the Salineras, where the natural, very salted water creates salt pools
filled with water and after a while, only salt.
People working at their pools
Ollataytambo, the only town in the sacred valley that kept its Inca architecture.
On the left, Inca's ruins and on the right a traditional boot selling handcrafts.
In the center of the amazing village.
We liked it a lot!
The traditional Peruvian drink: Inca Kola!
The only soda that coca cola could not beat.
The traditional Peruvian drink: Inca Kola!
The only soda that coca cola could not beat.
To help me get a little bit better, from Cusco we decided to go to Arequipa, the second biggest city of Peru located much closer to the sea and therefore having a much warmer weather. It was perfect. We liked Arequipa a lot because it has a very nice and old downtown, where we watched the election of Miss Arequipa. What a great show! From Arequipa many people decide to go to the Canon de Colca, a place we decided to skip as it was not recommended by the back packers we met along the way. It is the second deepest canon in the World but supposedly it also looks like a valley and is surrounded by bare mountains. The only thing that seemed interesting in the canon de Colca was to see the magnificent Condors, which are sacred animals of the Incas. But the 10 hour drive didnt deem worth the fuss. We are going to try to see those pretty birds in Bolivia.
Instead though we went to visit the Santa Catalina convent in the middle of the city where for 400 years nuns lived completely isolated from the outside world and not permitted to leave the 2000 square meter of the convent. It was like a city within a city. Girls would enter at the age of 12 and were segregated by social class. Depending on their status, they would have worse or nicer cells sometimes including servants. It was very interesting to see this unique place.
The entrance to the Santa Catalina convent, where the nuns could onlt talk to each other while working (sawing)
Inside of a private apartment, the kitchen
The central fountain where the nuns where meeting on Sundays
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